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Greek Gemista - Stuffed Peppers and Tomatoes with Rice
The vegetables are hollowed out and their insides chopped back into the filling. Herbs, rice and pine nuts, nothing else - gemista needs no minced meat and in Greece is usually made exactly this way.
Greek Spanakorizo - Spinach Rice with Dill and Lemon
One pot, twenty minutes: spinach, rice, spring onions and a great deal of dill. Lemon juice at the end tips the dish from heavy to fresh - without it, spanakorizo tastes only half finished.
Greek Briam - Oven Vegetables with Potatoes and Oregano
Everything into one dish, olive oil over it, an hour and a half in the oven: briam is Greece's Sunday vegetable dish and needs almost no handling. The vegetables cook in their own juices and caramelise at the edges.
Greek Gigantes plaki - Giant Beans in Tomato Sauce from the Oven
The large white beans of northern Greece are precooked and then finished in the oven in tomato sauce. They soak up the sauce and turn creamy - an effect the stovetop cannot reproduce.
Greek Fasolada - White Bean Soup with Carrot and Celery
Considered Greece's national dish, made of white beans, carrot, celery, onion and plenty of olive oil. No meat, no stock - the bean supplies the body, the oil the flavour.
Provençal Soupe au pistou - Vegetable Soup with Basil Paste
Provence's summer soup: beans, courgette, potato and pasta, finished with a spoon of pistou - basil, garlic and olive oil, without pine nuts. It is not cooked in but folded through in the bowl.
Provençal Tian - Fanned Vegetables from the Oven
Courgette, aubergine and tomato in thin slices, layered like roof tiles in a shallow dish and an hour in the oven. The tian is really the vessel, not the dish - a shallow earthenware form found in every Provençal household.
French Salade niçoise - Tuna Salad with Green Beans and Egg
France's best-known salad, and in Nice a full lunch. Everything is arranged side by side rather than tossed, so each ingredient stays recognisable - and so the vinaigrette does not pool at the bottom of the bowl.
French Lentilles du Puy - Lentil Salad with Mustard Vinaigrette
The small dark green lentils from the volcanic highlands of the Auvergne hold their shape when cooked. Dressed lukewarm with a sharp mustard vinaigrette, they serve in France as starter, side and main all at once.
Basque Piperade - Pepper Ragout with Egg
The national dish of the French Basque Country, named after the Basque word for pepper. Peppers and onions are stewed until they develop their own sweetness - then the eggs go in and are barely set.
Tuscan Panzanella - Bread Salad with Tomatoes and Basil
A salad whose main ingredient is old bread. It is not toasted but softened in tomato juice - which is why the tomatoes must be ripe and the salad needs half an hour standing before it reaches the table.
Umbrian Minestra di lenticchie - Lentil Soup from Castelluccio
The lentils from the Castelluccio plateau are so small and thin-skinned that they cook in half an hour without soaking. The soup needs no meat, no stock cube and no cream - and misses none of them.
Campanian Acqua pazza - Cod in Crazy Water
"Crazy water" was what the fishermen of the Amalfi coast called the quick broth of sea water, tomatoes and garlic in which they cooked the catch on board. Twenty minutes, one pot, and the fish stays moist because it poaches rather than fries.
Umbrian Insalata di farro - Spelt Salad with Courgette and Rocket
Farro is central Italy's ancient grain, grown in Umbria since Roman times. As a lukewarm salad with fried courgette, rocket and lemon it is Italy's answer to the grain bowl - a couple of millennia older.
Ligurian Farinata - Chickpea Pancake from the Oven
Three ingredients, one tray, no flour and no egg: chickpea flour, water and olive oil make a thin pancake, creamy inside and crisp at the edge. In Genoa it is eaten in the street, wrapped in paper straight from the oven.
Sicilian Caponata - Sweet and Sour Aubergine
Sicily's best-known vegetable dish, sweet and sour at once. Raisins provide the sweetness instead of sugar, capers and olives the seasoning instead of added salt. It tastes better on the second day than the first.
Roman Pasta e ceci - Chickpeas with Pasta and Rosemary
In Rome traditionally the Tuesday dish, sparely seasoned and full of flavour all the same: chickpeas, rosemary, a spoon of tomato paste, a hint of chilli. The chickpeas give the dish its creaminess, not cream.
Venetian Pasta e fagioli - Borlotti Bean Soup with Pasta
In the Veneto it is made with borlotti beans and so thick the spoon stands up in it. Part of the beans is pureed, the rest left whole - that alone is the difference between a soup and a stew.
Tuscan Fagioli all'uccelletto - White Beans in Tomato and Sage
The name means "in the manner of small birds", because the beans are seasoned with sage and garlic just as spit-roasted songbirds once were. Five ingredients, one pan - in Tuscany what elsewhere would be a side dish takes the lead.
Tuscan Ribollita - Twice-Cooked Bread and Bean Stew with Black Kale
Ribollita literally means reboiled: the stew is made a day ahead and reheated the next day with stale bread. Only then does it earn the name - before that it is just a vegetable soup.
Portuguese Feijoada de legumes - Black Beans with Pumpkin and Rice
Feijoada without meat, as it is cooked in Portugal on fast days and nowadays beyond them: black beans, pumpkin, carrot, bay. The pumpkin collapses and thickens the stew by itself.
Portuguese Caldo verde - Kale Soup with Potato
Portugal's best-known soup: pureed potato as the base and hair-fine kale that cooks for only three minutes. Instead of the usual chouriço, smoked paprika carries the smoky note here.
Portuguese Bacalhau com grão - Cod with Chickpeas and Egg
A lukewarm salad that counts as a hot main: cod, chickpeas, egg, raw onion, plenty of parsley, olive oil and vinegar. Fresh cod stands in for the salted kind here, which cuts roughly two thirds of the salt.
Spanish Salmorejo - Cold Tomato Cream from Córdoba
Denser and creamier than gazpacho, from just four base ingredients: tomato, bread, garlic, olive oil. Egg and a little ham go on top - measured out so sparingly that they season the dish rather than dominate it.
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